I think the main reason I love the island of Tinos so much is because it is very real. Perhaps because its central attraction is a church, most people don’t come to Tinos to party so a lot of the villages remain fairly untouched by mass tourism. Although generally a good thing, the island is much less self-sustaining that it used to be – decline in agricultural productivity plus a general trend toward urbanisation in Greece mean that there aren’t many young people staying on the island anymore. This also means that during the off-season there are not many options for dining, but the village of Ktikados has a wonderful taverna that is an old standby. During this trip in September we were its only patrons, and certainly felt the sharp autumn wind, but had a great meal per usual and enjoyed exploring the village.